{"id":20283,"date":"2024-01-10T15:16:41","date_gmt":"2024-01-10T15:16:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/catamaran-outremer.com\/?p=20283"},"modified":"2024-05-13T14:10:49","modified_gmt":"2024-05-13T14:10:49","slug":"sail-plans-from-mainsails-to-spinnakers-what-you-need-to-know","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/catamaran-outremer.com\/en\/sail-plans-from-mainsails-to-spinnakers-what-you-need-to-know\/","title":{"rendered":"Sail Plans : From Mainsails to Spinnakers, What You Need to Know"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Author : Nikki Henderson<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Which sails to buy for your Outremer can be a very difficult decision. For some, this is a steep learning curve. Many cruisers haven\u2019t used anything more elaborate than white sails (main sail + jib\/genoa). Others in the Outremer family come from the monohull world, or perhaps have grown up dinghy sailing. They may have a good understanding of sails, but still are often unsure whether their experience is directly applicable to an Outremer.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n\n

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Buying sails is one of the only major parts of the build process. I\u2019m often asked what brand I recommend. I tend to think that it is good to keep the choice close to home. If Outremer recommend a product, then I\u2019d say you need to have a very convincing reason to go against their recommendation. If you have a close personal relationship with another loft, then that could be a good reason to source your sails elsewhere. But, in terms of quality, I\u2019d say the average cruiser would not be able to spot the difference between two identically sized sails made from the same material but built different lofts. Perhaps the time to shop around would be if you are buying a racing wardrobe later down the line.<\/p>\n

Here is a breakdown of the standard sails that people choose from, from what I can gather:<\/p>\n

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Mainsail Choices for Blue Water Cruising<\/span><\/h2>\n

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As standard the mainsail comes with three reefing points. This is essential for any blue water performance cruiser. The only real choice people make with this sail is whether to go for a woven cloth \u2013 the best being Hydranet (white\/very light grey), or a slightly more expensive and lighter weight carbon laminate (the dark grey \/ black sails). I wouldn\u2019t recommend investing in laminate sails for blue water cruising. The only exception would be if you are seriously optimising the performance of rest of the boat \u2013 minimising weight \u2013 and sailing with experienced crew who trim and helm actively. You also might want to consider laminate sails as a second sail wardrobe for racing.<\/p>\n

One thing I\u2019d recommend investigating, is whether the leech line can be run up the leech and down the luff so that you can control it at the mast. Wandering to the end of the boom to sort it can feel very unsafe at sea.<\/p>\n

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Selecting the Right Jib for your catamaran<\/span><\/h2>\n

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Most Outremer owners choose a jib as their head sail. A jib is a head sail (sail at the front) that does not overlap the mast and therefore can use the self-tacking track. It\u2019s a great all rounder headsail for crews that aren\u2019t particularly experienced and have less interest in teasing out that extra 0.5 knots. It\u2019s a great \u2018starter sail\u2019 for any sailor buying an Outremer. Buy it and figure out your boat for a year, and then possibly upgrade\u2026 see below for more details on what you would need to plan in advance.<\/p>\n

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Genoa Sails: Maximizing Upwind Performance<\/span><\/h2>\n

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This is a headsail that overlaps the mast. Therefore, it is bigger than the jib and does not use the self-tacking track. As you need to tack it manually from one side to the other with the sheets, it is more physically demanding than the jib. It has a barber hauler permanently set up, as well as an out hauler, so there are more fine-tuning adjustment options than the jib. It\u2019s great for the enthusiastic sailors \u2013 perhaps dinghy sailors or keen racers – who love constantly trimming the sails. Its size gives that extra bit of upwind power in lighter winds. But the down-side is that it doesn\u2019t set very well furled, and is too big to use in heavier winds. In heavier winds you would need to put up a different sail (stay sail, different jib, or storm sail).<\/p>\n

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Stay Sail for Heavy Weather: Essential for Storm Sailing<\/span><\/h2>\n

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A stay sail is designed to fly off an inner forestay. This is an optional extra (not on the 45) and will require a carbon cross beam. It adds tens of thousands of euros to the price. It is a very small headsail and looks like a mini jib, with a low clew and a short foot (a bit like a knife blade). It typically is partnered with a genoa. Sometimes the stay sail is referred to as the \u2018heavy weather headsail\u2019; dropping the jib or genoa and flying the staysail is a very safe set up in a storm as it brings the centre of effort down and inboard and reduces weight aloft (so lower risk of capsize). In more moderate reaching conditions, the stay sail flies well at the same time as a spinnaker. Most staysails run up the inner forestay on hanks, and so setting it up requires significantly more physical effort than unfurling a jib. There is no point opting for a stay sail unless you are keen for sail changes and an active passage life. If you are on the fence on whether to get a stay sail, but you are enthusiastic and active sailors, I\u2019d recommend going for it as the versatility is such a bonus. Ultimately, you can fit the inner forestay but tie it back away from the foredeck and just fly the self-tacking jib for the first few years.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n\n

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Code 0 Sails: Unlocking Light Wind Performance<\/span><\/h2>\n

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The Code 0 is a light wind sail. It is almost the same shape as a genoa, but with broader shoulders and a higher clew. It is \u2018loose luffed\u2019 meaning it does not run up the forestay but flies off the end of the bow sprit, hoisted up on a 2:1 fractional (not to the top of the mast) halyard. It is a laminate sail, and very light weight. As opposed to a spinnaker, it is quite flat and so is most efficient between approximately 60 true wind angle (TWA) and 100 TWA and any wind strength less than 15 knots apparent. For beginners, I tend to call it \u2018the upwind spinnaker\u2019. It is a good sail for those keen to sail in light winds and run a \u2018greener\u2019 boat. In under 5 knots of true wind, it\u2019s probably the only thing that can get you moving. As the Code 0 has a limited wind range both in angle and in strength, it\u2019s better suited for the more enthusiastic sailor who enjoys changing sails because typically it only stays flying a few hours maximum before the wind picks up.<\/p>\n

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Code D: Performance in Light Winds<\/b><\/span><\/h2>\n

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Think of this as a \u2018starter-spinnaker\u2019. It\u2019s a brilliant option for anyone who has not got any experience with spinnakers. It\u2019s easiest understood as a furling asymmetric spinnaker that\u2019s been on a diet! It\u2019s perfect if you are looking for just one spinnaker that is easy to operate short-handed. The fact that it furls really negates the stress that spinnakers often are associated with – mainly the stress of hoisting and dropping them. The upside is that it\u2019s convenient and user friendly. The downside is that the way it furls affects its shape. If you were to compare it to a true Asymmetric spinnaker it\u2019s smaller, flatter and has a much shorter luff. It won\u2019t power you along as fast or as deep (more downwind) as an asymmetric spinnaker. But again, for most beginner cruisers this is going to be a completely adequate downwind sail to start with.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\n\n

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Read also :<\/em><\/p>\n

Daggerboards: how to adjust them on your catamaran<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n